Thursday, November 8, 2007

“Is this jewelry real? It leaves a mark on my skin.”

Many times discoloration left by jewelry on skin and clothes is possible even with the finest jewelry. Commonly called ‘gold smudge’ by jewelers, there are many possible reasons for this discoloration such as body chemistry and allergy, outside chemical exposure such as cosmetics and body-care products, water treatment chemicals and even air pollution. Microscopic physical abrasion of the jewelry by skin and clothing can also cause ‘smudging’ since fine particles of the metal are being worn away and deposited on the surface rubbing against the jewelry.

Abrasion- Fine dust and even body powder caught on the skin surface and fabrics act as ‘polishing’ agents that rub tiny amounts of metal from jewelry into the wearer’s skin and clothing leaving a stain. Try this test: Take a small piece of cloth and dust onto it some cosmetic powder or talc. Rub the bottom of a ring on the cloth back and forth quickly several times staying on the same area of the cloth. This will usually leave a dark streak on the cloth showing a quick example of ‘gold smudge’.

Chemicals
- Pure gold is a very stable metal that is considered non-reactive for the most part. It takes very strong acids, heat or electric current to break down its crystalline structure. Since it is very malleable it is difficult to design durable jewelry using pure gold. The alloy metals used to create Karat gold, usually silver, copper, nickel, and zinc are highly reactive so they oxidize and are affected by other chemicals very easily. Cosmetics and body products contain vast arrays of chemicals both botanical and manufactured. It is these compounds which can react with the base metals of karat gold alloys and cause tarnish, smudge and even corrosion stress fracturing of the jewelry. It is my personal observation that the essential oils used as scent bases for perfumes and colognes are very good at creating a ‘rainbow’ of different tarnish colors on gold jewelry. Municipal water, swimming pools, spas and salt water all contain chemicals that affect karat gold jewelry. Chlorine and sodium chloride (salt) are especially harmful to gold jewelry if the exposure is long term or concentrated. Taking jewelry off when swimming and bathing is a very good idea. Never clean jewelry in chlorine bleach! Even urban and industrial air pollution can cause tarnishing if extreme enough concentrations.

So while cheap imitation jewelry may ‘turn your finger green’ it may well be that your environment can affect your finest jewelry in a similar fashion. The best prevention is to keep your jewelry clean and away from contaminants.

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